How to Grow Alstroemeria in the UK

Alstroemeria is one of the most productive and long-flowering perennials you can grow in a UK garden. Also called the Peruvian lily, it flowers from June right through to the first frosts in October. Each stem produces 5-7 individual blooms that last up to 14 days in a vase, outperforming roses, dahlias, and most other garden-grown cut flowers.

Native to South America, alstroemeria arrived in Britain in the 1750s when seeds were sent to the Swedish botanist Carl Linnaeus. The modern hybrids sold in UK garden centres bear little resemblance to those original species. Decades of breeding have produced plants that are fully hardy to -15C, compact enough for containers, and available in every colour from deep burgundy to pure white. Growing alstroemeria in the UK is straightforward once you understand two things: planting depth and how to harvest the stems.

Which alstroemeria varieties grow best in the UK?

Choosing the right variety determines whether your alstroemeria thrives or struggles. Hardy hybrids tolerate UK winters without protection. Compact selections suit containers and small borders. Tall varieties provide stems long enough for professional-quality flower arrangements.

The table below compares the most reliable alstroemeria varieties for UK gardens, based on four seasons of trials on heavy Midlands clay and a south-facing patio.

Why we recommend Indian Summer as a first choice: Over four years of trials, Indian Summer produced the most stems per plant (35-45 per season), tolerated our heavy clay without complaint, and survived -12C with no winter losses at 20cm planting depth. The bronze-orange flowers are striking in borders and last 14 days in water. It earned the RHS Award of Garden Merit for good reason.

Planting alstroemeria tubers in spring. Set them 20cm deep with growing points facing upward for maximum winter protection.

How to plant alstroemeria tubers

Plant alstroemeria tubers 20cm deep in free-draining soil from March to May. This is the single most important step. Shallow planting is the primary cause of winter losses in UK gardens.

Choosing a position: Alstroemeria needs at least 6 hours of direct sun daily. A south or west-facing border is ideal. The plants tolerate partial shade but produce 30-40% fewer flowers. Avoid east-facing sites where morning sun thaws frozen stems too quickly after frost, causing cell damage.

Soil preparation: Dig a planting hole 30cm deep and 30cm wide. If your soil is heavy clay, work in a full bucket of horticultural grit and half a bucket of garden compost per planting hole. Alstroemeria dies in waterlogged soil. On chalky or sandy ground, add organic matter to improve moisture retention. The ideal pH range is 6.0-7.0. Our guide to improving clay soil covers the preparation method in detail.

Planting method:

1. Place a 5cm layer of grit at the base of the hole for drainage
2. Set the tuber with growing points facing upward
3. Backfill with the improved soil to 20cm depth above the crown
4. Water thoroughly with 2 litres per plant
5. Mark the planting position with a cane to avoid accidental disturbance

Spacing: Allow 45-60cm between plants. Alstroemeria spreads by underground rhizomes and will fill gaps within 2-3 seasons. In mixed borders, plant them 40cm from neighbouring perennials to prevent competition.

Container-grown plants: Plants bought in pots from garden centres can be planted from April to September. These establish faster than bare-root tubers because the root system is already active. Plant at the same depth as the pot soil level plus an additional 5cm of mulch for crown protection.

Month-by-month alstroemeria care calendar

This calendar works well alongside a broader summer flower planting plan for continuous colour from May to October.

How to grow alstroemeria as a cut flower

Alstroemeria is the longest-lasting garden-grown cut flower in the UK. Each stem survives 14 days in clean water at room temperature. Commercial florists rely on alstroemeria for exactly this reason, and the technique for growing it as a cut flower at home is identical.

Harvesting technique: Grip the stem firmly at the base, near soil level. Pull with a steady upward twist. The stem detaches cleanly from the rhizome. This pulling method removes a dormant bud at the stem base, which triggers the plant to produce a replacement shoot within 7-10 days. Cutting with secateurs leaves a stump that does not regenerate as efficiently.

Conditioning the stems: Strip all leaves from the lower two-thirds of each stem. Leaves left below the water line rot quickly, producing bacteria that block the stem’s water uptake. Place stems immediately into a bucket of cool water and leave for 2 hours in a cool room before arranging. Our guide to conditioning cut flowers covers the full technique for all garden flowers.

Vase life tips:

• Change vase water every 3 days
• Add a commercial flower food sachet or 1 teaspoon of sugar plus 2 drops of bleach per litre of water
• Keep the vase away from direct sunlight and fruit bowls (ethylene gas from fruit accelerates wilting)
• Re-cut stems by 2cm when changing water

Yield expectations: A mature plant in its third year produces 35-45 flower stems per season. Five plants provide enough stems for a weekly vase arrangement from June to September. For a dedicated cutting garden, plant a row of 8-10 plants spaced 45cm apart along a sunny fence or wall.

A single alstroemeria plant provides enough stems for weekly vase arrangements throughout summer. These blooms last 14 days in water.

How to divide alstroemeria

Divide established clumps every 3-4 years in March or April. Division is the most reliable propagation method for alstroemeria. It maintains vigour, increases your stock, and prevents the centre of the clump from becoming bare and unproductive.

When to divide: Wait until new shoots reach 5-8cm tall in spring. At this stage the plant is actively growing but the stems are short enough to handle without damage. Never divide in autumn or winter when the tubers are dormant and vulnerable to rot.

Division method:

1. Water the plant thoroughly the day before dividing
2. Use a garden fork to lift the entire clump, working 25cm out from the plant centre
3. Shake off loose soil to reveal the fleshy, dahlia-like tubers
4. Gently pull the clump apart into sections, each with 3-5 growing points and a good cluster of roots
5. Trim any broken or damaged tubers with a clean knife
6. Dust cut surfaces with sulphur powder to prevent fungal infection
7. Replant divisions immediately at 20cm depth in prepared soil
8. Water in with 3 litres per division

Important: Alstroemeria tubers are brittle and snap easily. Work slowly and carefully. A division with fewer growing points but intact tubers will outperform a larger piece with broken roots.

Divisions may produce foliage but few flowers in their first year. By the second season, expect full flowering from each new plant.

Growing alstroemeria in containers

Compact alstroemeria varieties thrive in pots on patios, balconies, and doorsteps. The Princess Lilies series was bred specifically for container growing, reaching just 30-40cm tall with a continuous flowering habit from June to October.

Container requirements:

• Minimum size: 30cm diameter, 40cm depth
• Material: Terracotta or frost-proof ceramic are best (clay wicks moisture, preventing waterlogging)
• Drainage: At least 3 drainage holes. Place crocks or polystyrene chunks over holes before filling
• Compost mix: 70% peat-free multipurpose compost, 30% perlite

Planting: Set one tuber per 30cm pot or three tubers per 45cm pot. Plant 15cm deep in containers (shallower than in open ground because the pot provides additional insulation). Water well after planting.

Feeding: Apply liquid tomato fertiliser (high potassium) fortnightly from May to September. Potassium promotes flower production. Avoid high-nitrogen feeds which push leafy growth at the expense of blooms.

Overwintering containers: Move pots to a sheltered position against a south-facing wall from November to March. Wrap the pot in bubble wrap or hessian to insulate the root zone. Reduce watering to once a month. In most of England, container-grown Princess Lilies survive -8C without issue. In Scotland and northern England, move pots into an unheated greenhouse or cold frame.

Compact alstroemeria varieties like Princess Lilies and Indian Summer thrive in large terracotta pots on a sheltered UK patio.

Common alstroemeria problems in the UK

Slug and snail damage. Young alstroemeria shoots are highly attractive to slugs, particularly in March and April when new growth emerges. Apply organic slug pellets (ferric phosphate) in a ring around each plant from February onwards. Our guide to getting rid of slugs covers all the methods. Beer traps set 30cm from the plant catch an average of 15-20 slugs per night during peak spring emergence.

Crown rot from waterlogging. Alstroemeria dies quickly in waterlogged soil. Symptoms include yellowing foliage, soft stems, and a foul smell from the base. Prevention is the only treatment: ensure planting holes contain grit, improve drainage on clay soils, and never mulch directly over the crown with moisture-retaining materials like fresh compost.

Frost damage to shallow-planted tubers. Tubers set less than 15cm deep are vulnerable to frost heave and direct cold injury. Symptoms appear as blackened, mushy growing points in spring. Always plant at 20cm depth and apply a 8-10cm bark mulch in the first two autumns. Established plants with deep root systems rarely suffer frost damage.

Red spider mite in hot summers. During prolonged dry spells above 25C, red spider mites can colonise the undersides of leaves, causing stippled, bronze discolouration. Mist foliage with water in the evening to raise humidity. Introduce the biological control Phytoseiulus persimilis for severe infestations. The Garden Organic pest management guide recommends biological controls as the first response for all ornamental plants.

Poor flowering in established plants. If a mature alstroemeria produces foliage but few flowers, the most likely causes are insufficient sun (less than 6 hours daily), over-feeding with nitrogen, or root congestion. Divide the clump in spring and replant in a sunnier position with potassium-rich fertiliser.

Alstroemeria in cottage garden borders

Alstroemeria has earned a permanent place in the cottage garden palette. The Ligtu hybrids, with their soft pastel tones in apricot, pink, salmon, and cream, blend naturally with roses, geraniums, delphiniums, and lavender.

Planting combinations that work:

• Back of border: Alstroemeria ‘Indian Summer’ (80-100cm) behind catmint and hardy geraniums
• Mid-border: Ligtu hybrids (60-90cm) alongside English roses and penstemons
• Front of border: Princess Lilies (30-40cm) with dianthus and low-growing salvias
• Cutting row: A dedicated line of tall varieties along a sunny fence for cut flower production

Colour planning: Alstroemeria flowers feature distinctive dark streaks and speckles on the inner petals. Orange and yellow varieties pair well with blue salvias and purple alliums. Pink varieties complement white roses and silver-leaved artemisia. The deep red ‘Mars’ creates a dramatic contrast with lime-green alchemilla.

Alstroemeria spreads by underground rhizomes at a moderate rate. A single plant covers 60-90cm of ground within three years. This makes it useful for filling mid-border gaps but worth monitoring to prevent it overwhelming smaller neighbours.

Field Report: Four seasons of alstroemeria trials in the Midlands

Trial location: GardenUK Test Beds, Staffordshire (heavy clay, pH 6.8) Date range: March 2022 - October 2025 Conditions: South-facing border, partial shelter from west winds, no winter protection beyond bark mulch

We planted 14 named varieties in March 2022, each as bare-root tubers from a specialist nursery. Half were planted at 15cm depth (the standard recommendation) and half at 20cm depth.

Key findings:

• Winter survival at 15cm depth: 40% (6 of 14 plants lost in the first winter, -12C January 2024)
• Winter survival at 20cm depth: 95% (1 loss, a tender species A. psittacina)
• Highest stem count: Indian Summer, 45 stems in year 3
• Best for containers: Princess Lilies ‘Eliane’ (pink) and ‘Daniella’ (orange)
• Longest vase life: ‘Summer Breeze’ at 16 days average
• First to flower each season: Princess Lilies, consistently 2 weeks ahead of tall hybrids
• Best on clay soil: Indian Summer and Ligtu hybrids required no soil amendment beyond grit in the planting hole

The RHS alstroemeria growing guide confirms that deep planting is critical for UK success, though their recommended depth of 15cm is in our experience too shallow for exposed Midlands sites.

Frequently asked questions

When should I plant alstroemeria in the UK?

Plant alstroemeria tubers from March to May when the soil temperature reaches 10C. Container-grown plants from garden centres can go in from April through to September. Spring planting gives the roots a full growing season to establish before winter. In northern England and Scotland, delay planting until mid-April when late frosts become less frequent. Pot-grown plants establish faster than bare-root tubers and often flower in their first summer.

How deep should I plant alstroemeria tubers?

Plant alstroemeria tubers 20cm deep for maximum winter protection. Most garden centre labels recommend 15cm, but our trials on heavy Staffordshire clay showed 95% survival at 20cm versus 40% at 15cm through winters reaching -12C. The deeper planting insulates the crown from frost penetration. On light sandy soils in southern England, 15cm is sufficient. Always position the tubers with the growing points facing upward.

Why is my alstroemeria not flowering?

Insufficient sunlight is the most common cause of poor flowering. Alstroemeria needs at least 6 hours of direct sun daily. Other causes include planting too shallow (crown damage from frost), over-feeding with nitrogen-rich fertiliser (pushes foliage at the expense of blooms), and congested roots. Plants that have not been divided for more than 4 years often decline in flower production. Divide in spring and apply a potassium-rich feed such as tomato fertiliser from May.

Can I grow alstroemeria in pots and containers?

Yes, alstroemeria grows well in containers of at least 30cm diameter and 40cm depth. Use a mix of 70% multipurpose compost and 30% perlite for drainage. The compact Princess Lilies series was bred specifically for containers, reaching just 30-40cm tall. Water when the top 3cm of compost feels dry. Feed fortnightly with liquid tomato fertiliser from May to September. Move pots to a sheltered spot against a south-facing wall in winter to protect the crown.

Should I cut or pull alstroemeria stems?

Pull stems from the base rather than cutting them. Grip the stem near soil level and pull with a gentle twisting motion. This removes the entire stem cleanly from the rhizome and stimulates the plant to produce replacement shoots. Cutting with secateurs leaves a stump that can rot in wet weather, potentially damaging the crown. Professional cut flower growers in the UK exclusively use the pulling method for maximum yield.

Is alstroemeria hardy in the UK?

Most modern alstroemeria varieties are hardy to -15C (RHS H5), surviving outdoors across all UK regions. The Ligtu hybrids and Indian Summer tolerate -15C without protection. The Princess series survives to -10C but benefits from a winter mulch in exposed northern gardens. Only tender species like A. psittacina need frost protection. Plant deeply at 20cm and mulch with 8-10cm of bark in autumn for the best winter survival rates.

How do I divide alstroemeria?

Divide alstroemeria in March or April when new shoots reach 5-8cm tall. Dig around the clump to a depth of 25cm, lifting the entire root mass. Gently separate the fleshy tubers into sections, each with 3-5 growing points. Replant divisions at 20cm depth in prepared soil enriched with garden compost. Water in well and mulch with bark. Divisions may not flower in their first year but will establish strongly for the following season. Handle tubers carefully as they snap easily.

Now you know how to grow alstroemeria from planting through to division and harvest, explore our guide to the best perennial plants for UK gardens to discover more long-flowering border plants that come back year after year.