Hazel Pea Sticks: Free DIY Plant Supports

The metal plant support industry exists because most gardeners do not know how to make supports themselves. There is nothing wrong with bought obelisks and peony hoops, but they cost £18 to £60 each, they always look like they were bought, and most of them rust or bend within four or five years. A hazel wigwam costs nothing if you have access to coppice and lasts longer than the cheap powder-coated metal versions.

I spent the first three seasons of my Staffordshire garden buying plant supports until a friend with a coppice woodland in Shropshire taught me to cut and weave hazel. Four years later I have not bought a plant support since, my borders look better, and I get an annual reason to walk in a working coppice in February.

This guide covers the November-to-March cutting season, the four practical structures (pea sticks, wigwams, dome frames, obelisks), the twisting technique that nobody mentions but that makes the difference between supports that bend gracefully and ones that snap, and a real cost comparison against the metal alternatives sold in garden centres.

Hazel pea stick supports in a Staffordshire cottage border in late June. The structures cost nothing to make, last 4-7 seasons, and disappear into the planting once the perennials grow up through them.

Why hazel beats bought plant supports

The case for DIY plant supports comes down to four practical advantages over the bought alternatives.

Cost. Bought peony hoops run £18-£28. Bought sweet pea wigwams £35-£60. Bought obelisks £45-£120. A garden with 8-12 supports costs £200-£500 in metal versus £0-£40 in hazel. Over a 10-year period the difference compounds: bought supports often need replacement every 4-6 seasons.

Plant compatibility. Twiggy hazel gives plants natural grip points. Sweet peas, runner beans, and clematis self-attach without tying. Stiff perennials like dahlias and helianthus rest comfortably against the rough surface. Smooth metal supports require ties, jute string, and twine for nearly every plant.

Aesthetic. Hazel looks like the garden. It weathers from green-brown to silver-grey over a season and disappears into planting. Painted metal looks like a product placement. Hazel obelisks and dome frames are the signature look of National Trust and RHS show gardens — including Sissinghurst and Beth Chatto’s gardens.

Sustainability. Coppiced hazel is a UK woodland management practice — cutting it actually benefits hazel woods, encourages dormouse and butterfly habitat, and supports rural coppice industries. The metal alternatives have manufacturing carbon costs and end up in landfill or scrap.

For a complementary low-cost garden technique, see our guide to the Chelsea chop — coupling hazel supports with proper Chelsea chop technique often eliminates the need for staking entirely on shorter perennials.

When to cut hazel for plant supports

The cutting season runs from November through March. Within that window, two periods give the best material:

Early November (best for pliability): Wood still holds autumn moisture and bends easily. Most pliable for weaving wigwams and dome frames. Risk: weather can be wet and woodland access difficult.

Late February to mid-March (best for accessibility): Coppice work easier in dry weather, no leaves to clear from the rods. Slightly drier wood than November but still pliable enough to weave for 3-4 weeks after cutting.

Avoid:

• Summer cutting (June-September) — leaves present, sap rising, rods rot fast
• April-May — leaves emerging, rods difficult to clean
• After mid-March — increasingly dry and brittle

Cut rods retain pliability for 3-4 weeks at room temperature, or 8-10 weeks if stored in a cool damp shed wrapped in damp hessian. For very pliable weaving, soak rods in water for 24 hours before bending.

Fresh-cut hazel from a coppice in late November. The rods are pliable for 3-4 weeks at this stage — soak in water if storing longer than that.

Where to source hazel rods

Five reliable UK sources, in order of cost:

1. Coppice woodland (free with permission)

Local Wildlife Trusts often run coppice working days from October to March. Volunteers help cut hazel and most trusts allow workers to take rods home. Look up your county Wildlife Trust’s events page or the Small Woods Association.

2. Council tree-surgeon cuttings (free)

Local councils manage hedgerow and roadside hazel through autumn-winter contracts. Phone the council depot in October-November and ask whether you can collect cuttings. Many surgeons are pleased to drop bundles at allotments or community gardens.

3. Local farmer or landowner (£0-£10 per bundle)

Hedgerow hazel is often unmanaged. Ask farmers or landowners if you can cut a few rods in exchange for tidying up. Always ask permission and never cut without it — hedgerow trees are protected under the Hedgerows Regulations 1997.

4. Forestry supplier (£8-£15 per bundle of 10 rods)

Specialist suppliers sell pre-cut hazel bundles. UK suppliers include Coppice Resources, Say It With Wood, and Local Greenwood Suppliers. A bundle makes 2-3 wigwams or 8-10 pea sticks.

5. Grow your own hazel (long-term solution)

Plant a hazel coppice (corylus avellana) in a 4-6m corner of the garden. After 5-7 years, cut rotate every 2-3 years for an indefinite supply. Hazel coppices for over 200 years from the same root stool. Hazel also features in our guide to a native hedgerow species guide.

Four useful plant support structures

Pea sticks (the simplest)

Pea sticks are the easiest hazel support and the most useful for general perennial work. Push a 45-75cm twiggy hazel rod into soil among emerging perennials in early April. Plants grow up through the twigs, which provide structural support without visible staking.

Build: None — just push individual sticks into soil Time: 30 seconds per stick Best for: Perennials prone to flopping (geraniums, anemones, asters, achilleas), peas, dwarf beans

Sweet pea wigwam

The signature hazel structure. Six rods around 1.8-2m long, pushed into soil 30cm deep in a 50cm circle, tops drawn together and tied with twine 30cm from the top. Add 3-4 horizontal weavers twisted around the verticals at 30cm, 60cm, and 90cm.

Build steps:

1. Mark a 50cm-diameter circle on bare soil
2. Push 6 hazel rods 30cm deep at evenly spaced points around the circle
3. Pull tops together gently, tie with jute twine 30cm from the top
4. Take a thinner rod and weave it horizontally around the wigwam at 30cm height, twisting under and over each vertical
5. Repeat at 60cm and 90cm
6. Trim any excessive twiggy ends

Time: 30-45 minutes Materials: 6 hazel rods 1.8-2m + 3-4 thinner weavers Lifespan: 5-7 seasons Best for: Sweet peas, climbing French beans, runner beans, morning glories

Dome frame for peonies and late perennials

A 6-8 rod dome covers a 60-90cm diameter clump. Bend each rod into an arch from one side to the other and weave the top junction together with twine. Adds horizontal support for tall perennials that flop in wet summers.

Build steps:

1. Cut 6-8 rods around 1.5-1.8m long
2. Push one end into soil at the perimeter of the clump
3. Bend over the clump and push the other end into soil on the opposite side
4. Repeat with each rod, crossing at the top
5. Tie all crossings together with jute twine
6. Add 2-3 horizontal weavers around the dome edge

Time: 30-40 minutes Materials: 6-8 rods 1.5-1.8m + 2-3 weavers Lifespan: 4-6 seasons Best for: Peonies, tall asters, helianthus, late helleniums

Twiggy frame for tall annuals and dahlias

A square 4-rod frame with a horizontal cross-piece, covered with brushwood weaving. Ideal for dahlias and tall cosmos that need both vertical and horizontal support.

Build steps:

1. Push 4 hazel uprights 1.2-1.5m tall into the soil at the corners of a 60cm square
2. Tie a rectangular frame of horizontal rods at 60cm and 100cm heights
3. Weave brushwood (the small twiggy ends from coppice cuttings) through the frame
4. Plant dahlias inside the frame; they grow up and through

Time: 45-60 minutes Materials: 4 uprights + 4-8 horizontals + brushwood Lifespan: 3-5 seasons Best for: Dahlias, cosmos, cleome, tall sunflowers

A finished sweet pea wigwam in March before planting. Six 1.8m rods, three horizontal weavers at 30cm, 60cm, and 90cm. Holds 6-8 sweet pea plants for the season.

Three styles in one border: a sweet pea wigwam, a peony dome frame, and pea sticks among emerging asters. All cut from the same hazel coppice over 30 minutes one Saturday morning.

The twisting technique nobody talks about

The technical breakthrough that separates amateur hazel work from real coppice craft is the twist. When you bend a fresh hazel rod, twist it half a turn as you bend. The wood fibres stretch evenly across the bend instead of compressing on one side and stretching on the other. Bend without twist and the rod snaps; bend with twist and a 2.5m rod can curve into a U-shape that holds for years.

The technique works because hazel fibres are spirally arranged. Twisting redistributes the bend stress along the spiral and the rod yields gently. It is the same principle that allows traditional hurdle-makers and hedge-layers to work hazel in ways that look impossible.

To practise the twist:

1. Hold a freshly cut rod with both hands 60cm apart
2. Begin to bend the centre toward you
3. As the bend forms, twist your right hand clockwise (or your left hand counter-clockwise) by 30-45 degrees
4. Continue the bend slowly, maintaining the twist
5. The rod yields silently — if you hear cracking, you have not twisted enough

After 5-10 practice rods you develop the feel. From that point you can bend 2-3m rods into perfect arches without breaking any.

Costed comparison: DIY vs bought

A small UK cottage garden typically uses 8-12 plant supports per season. The 10-year cost difference is substantial.

Even buying bundled hazel from a forestry supplier, DIY costs less than a tenth of bought metal supports. The time investment is roughly 3-4 hours of cutting (one trip to a coppice) and 4-6 hours of weaving (one rainy Saturday afternoon).

Storing and reusing hazel supports

Properly stored hazel supports last twice as long as those left out year-round. After the autumn cut-back:

1. Dismantle wigwams and dome frames
2. Strip off twine and label each component (1.8m, 1.5m, weaver)
3. Stack vertically against a north-facing shed wall under cover
4. Cover with a tarpaulin or plastic sheet — but allow airflow
5. Inspect in February for rot before re-using in spring

Pea sticks are usually too small to dismantle — push them deeper into the compost heap to break down.

A 20% replacement rate per year is normal — every spring some rods will have rotted. Cut replacements during the November-March window and weave them in.

For broader sustainable gardening practices, see our guides on making leaf mould and composting for the garden.

Hazel wigwam rods dismantled, stacked, and covered for winter. Proper storage doubles the lifespan from 3-4 years to 6-7 years per build.

Common DIY plant support mistakes

Cutting hazel in summer

Sap is rising, rods rot fast, and you lose the woodland’s annual coppice opportunity. Wait until November.

Forgetting the twist

The single most common cause of broken rods. Always twist as you bend.

Pushing rods too shallow

Plant supports need to go 25-30cm into the soil. Shallower and they pivot in wind. On hard ground, drill a starter hole with a metal spike before pushing the rod in.

Weaving with brittle dry rods

If a rod cracks audibly when bent, soak it in water for 12-24 hours before weaving. Or use it for pea sticks where bending is not required.

No horizontal weavers on wigwams

A 6-rod wigwam without horizontal weavers acts as a hinge — it twists in wind. Always add 3 weavers at 30cm, 60cm, and 90cm heights.

Storing supports outdoors uncovered

UK rain rots untreated hazel within 18 months. Always shelter under cover for winter.

Hazel plant support maintenance calendar

Total annual time: 8-12 hours per garden. Compared to assembling and rust-proofing 10+ metal supports, DIY hazel is faster after the first season.

Frequently asked questions

When should I cut hazel for plant supports?

Cut hazel between November and March, while it is leafless and dormant. November-cut rods are most pliable because the wood is still wet from autumn. Late February to mid-March is the second-best window. Avoid cutting in summer — leaves are present, sap is rising, and cut rods rot quickly. Cut rods stay pliable for 3-4 weeks. After that they harden and snap when bent. Use within a month or store in a cool damp shed for 8-10 weeks.

Where can I get hazel rods for plant supports?

Three sources: coppice woodland (most reliable, often local woodland trusts sell cordwood at £30-£50 per cubic metre), council tree-surgeon cuttings (free, ask at council depots in November-February), and roadside hedgerow cuttings (only with landowner permission). Many local Wildlife Trusts run coppice working days where volunteers help cut hazel and take some home. Forestry supply companies sell pre-cut bundles of straight hazel rods at £8-£15 per bundle of 10 rods.

How long do hazel plant supports last in UK weather?

A well-made hazel support lasts 4-7 UK seasons. Hazel pea sticks (the smallest type) last 2-3 seasons because the small twiggy ends rot fastest. Wigwams and dome frames last 5-7 seasons because the main rods stay thick. Birch supports last 2-4 seasons — finer, less durable, but better for delicate plants. Storing supports under cover during winter doubles their life. Always check the bases each spring for rot before reusing.

How do you make a sweet pea wigwam from hazel?

Make a sweet pea wigwam from 6 hazel rods around 1.8-2m long pushed into soil 30cm deep in a 50cm-diameter circle. Pull the tops together and tie with twine 30cm from the top. Add 4 horizontal weavers (thinner rods) twisted around the wigwam at 30cm, 60cm, and 90cm heights. Sweet peas climb the verticals while the weavers add stiffness against wind. Total build time: 30-45 minutes per wigwam. The structure holds 6-8 vigorous sweet pea plants for the season.

Are hazel pea sticks better than bamboo canes?

Hazel pea sticks beat bamboo on three measures: durability, plant grip, and appearance. Hazel pea sticks last 2-3 UK seasons; bamboo canes split and snap within one season. Plants grip hazel naturally because of the twiggy structure; bamboo canes need ties. Hazel looks like the garden — bamboo always looks bought. The only place bamboo wins is uniformity for formal vegetable plots like cordon tomatoes, where hazel’s irregularity becomes a problem.

Can I use birch instead of hazel for plant supports?

Yes, birch works well for finer plant supports though it lasts half as long as hazel. Birch is more pliable and finer-twigged, making it ideal for delicate plants like cosmos, cleome, and tall annuals where hazel rods would look too coarse. Cut in the same November-March window. Birch supports last 2-4 UK seasons before becoming brittle. A common practice is to mix birch fines among hazel rods on the same support — hazel for structure, birch for finer twigginess.

How much does a DIY hazel plant support cost?

DIY hazel supports cost between zero and £4 each. Free if you cut your own from coppice, council cuttings, or with permission from hedgerow owners. £2-£4 if buying pre-cut bundles from forestry suppliers (typically 10-20 rods per bundle, enough for 2-3 wigwams or 8-10 pea sticks). Bought metal plant supports range from £18 (basic peony hoop) to £60+ (decorative obelisk). DIY hazel pays back the time investment within one season at typical perennial prices.

The twist-and-bend technique. Hands rotate the rod 30-45 degrees while bending — the spirally arranged hazel fibres yield instead of snapping, allowing 2.5m rods to curve into perfect arches.

Sources: Small Woods Association | Royal Horticultural Society - using natural materials in gardening