Bulbs for UK gardens

Plant bulbs in October or November, 10-15 cm deep and 15-20 cm apart. Choose a sunny position with well-drained soil — alliums dislike sitting in wet ground over winter. On heavy clay, add sharp grit to the planting hole to improve drainage. The foliage begins to die back as flowers open, so position behind lower perennials such as hardy geraniums or nepeta to disguise the yellowing leaves. No staking is needed for most varieties. Feed with a general-purpose fertiliser in spring as shoots emerge. Leave dried seed heads in place for winter interest or cut for dried flower arrangements. Divide congested clumps every three to four years in autumn. Alliums are rarely troubled by pests, as the onion scent deters most insects.

Soak the hard, dried tubers overnight in tepid water before planting to rehydrate them — this dramatically improves establishment. Plant 5 cm deep and 5-8 cm apart in autumn. Since it is almost impossible to determine which end is up, plant tubers on their sides and let the shoots find their way. Choose a position with dappled shade and humus-rich, well-drained soil. They thrive under deciduous trees where they receive winter light. No feeding or watering is required once established. Anemone blanda self-seeds freely and forms dense colonies over time. The foliage dies back by early summer, leaving no trace above ground. Divide congested clumps in late summer when dormant.

Plant bulbs in autumn, 10-12 cm deep and 10 cm apart, in dappled shade under deciduous trees where conditions mimic their native woodland habitat. Bluebells prefer humus-rich, moist soil that does not dry out in summer. Mulch annually with leaf mould. Once established, they require no feeding or watering. Native bluebells spread slowly by seed and offsets, gradually forming dense drifts. Avoid planting Spanish bluebells (H. hispanica) nearby, as they cross-pollinate freely and the resulting hybrids can overwhelm the native species. Buy only from reputable suppliers who guarantee nursery-propagated stock. Never collect bulbs from the wild — it is illegal.

Plant corms in September or October, 8-10 cm deep and 8 cm apart, with the pointed end facing upwards. Choose a sunny, well-drained position — crocuses rot in waterlogged soil. For naturalising in lawns, scatter corms randomly and plant where they fall for an organic effect. Avoid mowing the grass until at least six weeks after flowering so the foliage can feed the corm. No regular feeding is needed, but a light top-dressing of bone meal at planting time helps establishment. Crocuses multiply freely and congested clumps can be lifted and divided every three to four years after the foliage dies back. Replant cormlets immediately at the same depth.

Plant tubers in late summer or early autumn, just below the soil surface with the slightly concave side facing upwards — this is where the growing points sit. Choose a spot in dappled shade with well-drained soil rich in leaf mould. The base of deciduous trees and north-facing walls are ideal positions. Hardy cyclamen tolerate very dry conditions once established, thriving where little else will grow. Do not water during the summer dormancy period. Top-dress with leaf mould each autumn. Self-sown seedlings appear freely once plants are established — ants help distribute the sticky seeds. Avoid disturbing established tubers, as they resent being moved. Buy nursery-grown tubers from reputable suppliers rather than wild-collected stock.

Plant bulbs in September or October, setting them at a depth of two to three times the bulb's height. Choose a spot with good drainage — waterlogged soil causes rot. Daffodils tolerate most soil types and perform well in partial shade beneath deciduous trees. Space bulbs 10-15 cm apart and scatter them randomly for a natural look when naturalising in grass. Feed with a potassium-rich fertiliser as flowers fade. Allow foliage to die back naturally for at least six weeks after flowering — do not tie leaves in knots or cut them early. Divide congested clumps every four to five years once flowering declines. Lift, separate, and replant immediately at the same depth.

Start tubers indoors in pots during April, keeping them frost-free at around 15-18 degrees Celsius. Plant out after the last frost, typically late May in southern England or early June further north. Choose a sunny, sheltered spot with rich, well-drained soil. Add garden compost or well-rotted manure before planting. Set tubers 10-15 cm deep. Stake tall varieties at planting time. Water deeply during dry spells, especially once buds form. Feed fortnightly with a high-potash liquid fertiliser from July. Pinch out the growing tip when plants reach 40 cm to encourage branching. Deadhead regularly to prolong flowering. After the first frost blackens the foliage, cut stems to 15 cm. In mild areas, mulch heavily and leave tubers in the ground. In colder regions, lift tubers, dry for a week, and store in slightly damp compost in a frost-free shed.

Plant corms 5 cm deep and 5-8 cm apart in late March or April, once the risk of hard frost has passed. Choose the warmest, most sheltered spot in the garden — a south-facing wall or raised bed is ideal. Alternatively, grow in pots of loam-based compost in a cool greenhouse or conservatory for earlier, more reliable flowers. Keep soil evenly moist during growth but avoid waterlogging. Support the slender stems with twiggy sticks or a low grid. Feed fortnightly with a high-potash liquid fertiliser once flower buds appear. After flowering, allow the foliage to die back naturally. Lift corms in autumn before the first frost, dry them, and store in a cool, frost-free place over winter. In very mild coastal gardens, they may survive outdoors with a deep mulch.

Plant corms 10-12 cm deep and 10-15 cm apart from late March to May. Stagger plantings every two weeks for a succession of blooms through summer. Choose a sheltered, sunny spot with fertile, well-drained soil. Stake tall varieties before flowers open to prevent wind damage. Water regularly during the growing season, especially in dry weather. Feed fortnightly with a balanced liquid fertiliser once flower spikes appear. For cut flowers, harvest when the bottom two or three florets have opened. After the first frost, cut stems to 5 cm above ground level. Lift corms carefully, remove soil, and dry in a warm, airy place for two to three weeks. Store in paper bags in a cool, frost-free location over winter. Replant the following spring.

Plant bulbs in October or November, 10 cm deep and 8-10 cm apart, in well-drained soil in full sun or light shade. Wear gloves when handling — the bulbs contain oxalic acid that can irritate skin. For indoor forcing, place prepared bulbs in a bulb vase or pot of compost, keep in a cool dark place at 9 degrees Celsius for 10-12 weeks until shoots are 5 cm tall, then bring into warmth and light. Outdoor hyacinths need little care once planted. Feed with a high-potash fertiliser as flowers fade. Flower spikes become looser and more graceful in subsequent years, which many gardeners prefer to the tight first-year blooms. Leave foliage to die back naturally.

Plant rhizomes in July or August so they establish before winter. Set the rhizome on the soil surface with roots spread below — the top must be exposed to the sun to bake. This is essential; buried rhizomes flower poorly and are prone to rot. Space 30-45 cm apart. Choose the hottest, most sheltered spot in the garden. Avoid mulching over the rhizome. Feed with a low-nitrogen, high-potash fertiliser in spring and again after flowering. Water only during prolonged dry spells. After flowering, cut the stem to the base but leave the fan of foliage intact. Trim leaves to a 15 cm fan shape in late summer to reduce wind rock and keep borders tidy. Divide congested clumps every three to four years immediately after flowering.

Plant bulbs in autumn or early spring, 15 cm deep with the pointed end upwards. Set on a 5 cm layer of sharp grit for drainage — lily bulbs rot if they sit in water. Position in full sun with the base shaded by lower plants. Lilies produce stem roots above the bulb, so deep planting is essential. Feed fortnightly with a high-potash liquid fertiliser from when buds appear until two weeks after flowering. Water regularly during dry spells but avoid wetting the foliage, which can encourage fungal disease. Stake tall stems before flowers open. Deadhead spent blooms but leave the stem until it dies back naturally in autumn. Mulch with garden compost in spring. Container-grown lilies need repotting every two years with fresh, loam-based compost.

Soak the claw-like tubers in tepid water for three to four hours before planting. Plant with the claws pointing downwards, 5 cm deep and 10-15 cm apart, in fertile, well-drained soil. In mild areas of southern England, plant outdoors in October for spring flowers. In colder regions, start tubers in pots under glass in February and plant out after the last frost. Choose a sunny, sheltered position. Water moderately — overwatering causes rot. Feed fortnightly with a high-potash liquid fertiliser once flower buds appear. Deadhead regularly to prolong flowering. After the foliage dies back in summer, lift tubers and store in a cool, dry place over winter. In very mild coastal gardens, tubers can be left in the ground with a thick mulch for protection.

Plant snowdrops 'in the green' — as growing plants with leaves attached — immediately after flowering in March or April. This gives far better results than planting dry bulbs in autumn, which often fail to establish. Set bulbs 10 cm deep and 8 cm apart in humus-rich soil under deciduous trees or shrubs where they receive winter light and summer shade. Keep the soil moist but not waterlogged. Snowdrops resent being dried out. Once established, they need no feeding or watering. Lift and divide congested clumps every three to four years immediately after flowering. Replant divisions straight away — never let the roots dry out.

Plant bulbs 15-20 cm deep in late November or December to reduce the risk of tulip fire disease. Choose a spot with full sun and well-drained soil; waterlogged ground causes bulbs to rot. Add grit to the planting hole on heavy clay soils. Space bulbs 10-15 cm apart for a natural display. Feed with a high-potash fertiliser when shoots emerge in spring. Deadhead spent flowers promptly but leave the foliage to die back naturally over six weeks, allowing the bulb to store energy for the following year. In borders, plant through low ground cover such as forget-me-nots to disguise the fading leaves. Lift and store bulbs after foliage dies if your soil is heavy, or treat as annuals and replant fresh each autumn for the strongest display.

Plant corms 8-10 cm deep in spring in humus-rich, well-drained soil in sun or light shade. Space clumps 15-20 cm apart. 'Lucifer' is the hardiest crocosmia and survives most UK winters without protection, but a thick mulch of bark over the corms in late autumn helps in colder northern gardens. Water during prolonged dry spells in summer. Feed with a balanced fertiliser in spring as growth begins. Crocosmia spreads steadily via offsets and can form large colonies after a few years — divide every three to four years to control spread and maintain flowering vigour. The sword-like foliage provides useful vertical structure even before and after flowering.